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Strasbourg & Personal Conclusions

STRASBOURG & FREIBURG

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I love Strasbourg and its red sandstone Cathedral. It almost borders Germany so there is a mix of influences with the architecture, food and the street vibe all straddling both cultures. I’m living in the old town with its pedestrianised streets and quirky independent clothes shops which are difficult to resist so I window shop.  I’ve chosen to come here as there are many wonderful cathedrals plus historic organs. 

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There is a wonderful Organ and Flute Recital in St Thomas Church on Saturday evening and there I find an organ which was played by Mozart.  The programme showcases both instruments to their fullest with lots of base pipes and includes a lot of Bach - so I am in heaven.

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I have time left on my interrail pass so I take a day trip over the border to Freiburg wander a German market and enjoy the cathedral there which has four organs. I discover they can all be played at the same time from one consol which must be extraordinary?!!!  And another surprise - they have a swallows nest organ too.

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I'm feeling I'd like to visit these towns again and enjoy their organ festivals.

Strasbourg Cathedral

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The organ console played by Mozart 

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The Swallow's Nest Organ in Strasbourg 

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WHAT A FINALE!!

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I’m not sure where to begin? It has to be today, Sunday – a day that I planned, and have long awaited. And it is the final day of my pilgrimage, before ploughing my long way home by train. I choose to end my journey in Strasbourg because here, in the Cathedral, is a ‘swallow’s nest’ organ built in 1327 which will be played during Sunday mass.  This is a full organ (pipes + consol) suspended high on the wall. The organist climbs hidden narrow steps to squeeze into a tiny space to play!!  It was created in the medieval to give the illusion of ‘sacred music’ floating downwards to the congregation and, oh yes, it certainly works!!

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I enter as the huge bells ‘ring in’ the congregation and this organ is already playing.  I choose a seat directly to its far right to gain the best sound experience. Indescribable and glorious. Yes, this is what my pilgrimage is all about – and during this experience I gain a lot of insights and understandings which seem to arise within me. I keep going back to experience it again and again - three times at mass !!! But I'm enjoying the ritual, frankinsence smoke, chants and the mighty organ.

Pilgrimage Personal Conclusions

The prime reason for any pilgrimage is to seek. I've gained a

lot of personal insights and self realisation.  Travelling solo and spending 100% of the time alone in reflection, is, at the least, intersting and humbling. That in itself is a pilgrimage.

 

My intention has been to visit some of the greatest Gothic Cathedrals of France to experience their potential power AND to hopefully hear the organ being played because to me in my role as a shamanic sound practitioner it seems to play a very important role in what transpires for the body, mind and spirit in these massive spaces.

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For many years, I’ve researched the location choices and the architecture of 12th – 14th century cathedrals and it’s fascinated me.  On this journey through France, I’ve visited the best of them being Le Mans, Chartes(3), Rouen, Amiens, Paris (4), Bourges, Freiburg & Strasbourg (4). All are very different and each carries a different energy, interest and personal experience.

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However the organ is only played at Sunday Mass or a recital and I only managed to hear the organ in Le Mans, St Pierre in Chartres, St Denis in Paris, St Thomas in Strasbourg (this organ was played by Mozart) and then attending mass three times in Strasbourg Cathedral to experience the powerful swallow’s nest organ and absorb the wonders around me!!  It is the perfect finale and proves that it’s only when certain factors are ALL combined that one can feel one’s soul uplifted.

An etching of a medieval cathedral

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​PREVIOUS RESEARCH THAT INSPIRED THIS PILGRIMAGE

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  • Cathedrals were often built over existing pagan shrines – places where folk gathered to celebrate nature and annual festivals as well as commune with their ancestors. Places where the veil between the realms is thin, so that connection to Spirit was easy and the land still carries that energy. Sometimes they were marked with a menhir or standing stone many of which still exist today as part of the cathedral.

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  • Water is very important as an element incorporated into the placing of a cathedral. It brings a special energy. Many are built over sacred springs or on underground water tables (Salisbury, Winchester and Wells are prime examples) and Notre Dame is on Ile de Cite and Strasbourg Cathedral is also on an island, so they are surrounded by water. Or they may be built on top of a hill. Supposedly, so that they can be seen from surrounding countryside but when a hill is created there is a burst of powerful earth energy which is still held within the land bringing powerful energies. (Lincoln Cathedral).

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  • They are normally orientated East / West. The apse is in the east and usually has small chapels around it with appropriate stained glass windows to catch the morning light.  The west side is an ornate façade often featuring a massive rose window and very grand decorated doorways or portals which have figures carved into them. East west orientation has been used by indigenous and ancient peoples for temples and sacred structures for thousands of years. It also means that the huge stained glass windows of the nave receive the brightest southern light.

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  • And of course, there is the geometry of their architecture the measurements and sacred ratios which create a ‘container’ for power and incredible acoustics.

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  • I’ve also studied very alternative theories that suggest cathedrals are generators of energy and have the facility to store that energy but I won’t discuss that here.

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MY OWN INSIGHTS

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I’ve loved the cathedrals in France – each has its own particular energy and are very different to UK or Spanish cathedrals. There is an authenticity here. A holy silence. There is no entry fee and a tangible veneration even with huge crowds wandering around. Any guided tourist groups are obliged to use headsets unlike UK cathedrals where any silence is eclipsed by loud flag waving tour groups.  

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I enter any cathedral with reverence and openness to experience what it may bring. There is a hushed peace and calmness within the spacious dimensions. I wander slowly among the magnificent marble statues, the glorious religious art and the massive ornate shrines and the beauty these add to the interiors is overwhelming.

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But it’s only when the mighty organ plays that one’s spirit soars. Add to that the frankincense smoke, the pure voices of the choristers, the adornments and the colours coming in through the stained glass and it can be a truly divine experience.  Each of these aspects ALONE can promote a form of awe or healing but, combined TOGETHER, I am moved into what can only be described as ecstatic bliss.

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In these times, we have reintroduced sound therapy, colour therapy, smudging for energy clearing and vocal toning as healing modalities but people were experiencing this eight hundred years ago in these cathedrals!!

 

And something else I realised is that one can listen to recorded organ music but to be in the presence of the organ in the cathedral dimensions and acoustics is wondrous. When the bass foot keyboard and swell pedal are activated, I really feel the vibrations in my body. It’s the same with gong! Listening to gong frequencies on headphones brings a relaxed state through pyscho-acoustics but being in the presence of the gong brings you a physical experience known as vibro-acoustics. 

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Perhaps my conclusions have little to do with religion and yet, that is said to be the main purpose of any cathedral. Ancient peoples honoured and worshipped on the land so why did it feel essential to build these might edifices?  I hesitate to state a conclusion here except to say that a cathedral might create a ‘magic box’ in which anything can happen depending on the intent or faith of the worshipper. Perhaps it creates a channel or vessel through which prayers can be heard? My own belief might be that the alchemy of sacred space, sacred sound and sacred colour can together create alchemy raising one’s personal frequency? And reaching that high frequency brings ease of prayer, healing and manifesting.

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However further integration might be needed and more exploration perhaps?

The Interrail Journey

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PILGRIMAGE TIDBITS

 

This is my first time using Interrail, and once I get the hang of it, I love the freedom — sometimes I don’t know where I’m going until the day itself. There’s something magical about rumbling over the rails, watching countryside and old towns slide past, then opening the door of a new apartment and stepping straight into a fresh adventure.

 

I travel light (apart from my laptop). Just a small case and a backpack, and they work beautifully together. This also stops me buying things — France is full of gorgeous clothes and chic homeware, but I’m perfectly happy just browsing.

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I find the French wonderfully friendly and surprisingly keen to speak English — the total opposite of Spain. Because I’m staying in apartments, I cook for myself most of the time. I realise quickly that mid range restaurants aren’t giving me anywhere near enough protein, and even the little convenience supermarkets make it a challenge to find quality protein options that don’t require cooking. In Paris I buy eggs, discover the stovetop doesn’t work, and end up inventing a system for boiling eggs in my tiny thermos flask — it works like a dream. I hardly eat out at all, which saves a small fortune.

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I feel guided throughout the whole journey and miracles are always around. Despite the amount of daily walking which normally causes my knee to flare up, I am pain free after about a week and it continues to improve!!

And I’ve been planning to visit Durham Cathedral for awhile.  I'm dozing on the train home yesterday and wake up suddenly to find Durham Cathedral sliding past my window!!  So I guess that’s on my agenda very soon.

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And now I'm home taking time to absorb and integrate the experiences - explore and research further and enjoy my photographs and recordings which can whisk me back into the energy of my experiences.  I feel very blessed.

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